It's a funny concept – like the catch-all term world music, "ethnic" food is a description that everyone understands but no one can easily explain. After all, what type of music isn't world music? What kind of cuisine isn't ethnic? Most would assume ethnic dining refers to foods from countries outside of ours … yet my boyfriend insists that "soul food" (another hard-to-define descriptor) should be on the list.
As with music, food is all relative. I spent the early years of my childhood living on the upper floor of a Chinese restaurant my family owned. Egg rolls and Moo Goo Gai Pan were as common to me as spaghetti and chicken soup to most other American kids. I grew up eating exotic produce like bitter melon and wood ears, unusual meats like squid and duck and slurping down red bean soup for dessert. So it's quite possible that my sense of "ethnic" cuisine is skewed – my roommates always joke about my penchant for "weird" foods.
If you enjoy exploring new restaurants, particularly ethnic ones, there is a local dining group you should definitely check out called Food Chain Cincinnati. Started in 2002, the group organizes intimate groups of people hungry for invigorating conversation and adventurous dining at various locally owned, ethnic restaurants. As their meetup site states, “We're about CONVERSATION and getting together with people we may not know to discover something new about them and maybe about ourselves.”
Food Chain organizer, Marty Johnson agrees. “I am always amazed at the conversations that unfold and I love watching the magic that occurs as people share unique dishes and learn about each other. Most groups linger long after the meal is finished just talking and having a good time. That's what Food Chain is all about.”
Trying to define ethnic food in Cincinnati, a city with residents who come from all over the globe, may be a futile effort. However, even though it may be hard to draw the lines between what does and does not qualify as ethnic cuisine (ambiguous foods like pizza and tacos can be argued for days), I can tell you where to find some good examples of it. The following is a guide to some of the best ethnic eateries in town – with the understanding that this list is completely subjective, incomplete and does not reflect the views of this publication, nor my roommates, who will probably crinkle their noses and tell you not to trust my "weird" palette.
Local Ethnic Cuisine Directory
Thai: Sort of a cross between Chinese and Indian food, Thai cooking involves lots of coconut milk, curry, lemongrass, ginger and basil. There are a few Thai restaurants in Hyde Park - my favorite is Green Papaya, 513-731-0107. Thai Express in Clifton is also great (take-out only), especially if you're on a budget. 513-651-9000.
Indian: Be ready for lots of spices! Indian cuisine often includes a wide selection of curries and flat breads, preceded by wonderful (usually fried) appetizers accompanied by chutneys (sauces). There are tons of Indian restaurants in Clifton – my personal favorite is Apna on Ludlow. 513-861-6800.
Chinese: You haven't had real Chinese food until you've had Chinese dim sum. The best place to get that locally was Pacific Moon on the Levee, but since they've closed (temporarily, the sign says), you can check out Uncle Yip's in Evendale, where they serve it on the weekends. 513-733-8484.
Italian: Ferrari's Little Italy in Madeira is quite popular. I haven't been, but people keep telling me I should go. 513-272-2220.
German: Considering that Cincinnati has such a high population of German immigrants (or their descendants) you might be surprised that there aren't more German restaurants. Maybe we get it out of our systems with multiple Oktoberfests and Goetta Fests. In any case, my boyfriend votes for Wertheim's in Covington. 859-261-1233. I also have to plug the future food (coming soon) at Grammer's in Over-the Rhine – it's a great place to enjoy a beer in a very unique setting (heavy German themes) and support a historic Cincinnati business. 513-421-8300
Ethiopian: I love Ethiopian food! Often consisting of stewed meats or vegetables served on thin, spongy bread called injera, Ethiopian cuisine is light, flavorful and nutritious. The only Ethiopian restaurant I know of is Emanu in Pleasant Ridge and has been consistently excellent throughout the years I've been dropping in. Just FYI, the meal is meant to be eaten with your fingers, and traditionally, people share off of one plate. Don't forget to try the Ethiopian tea and/or coffee. 513-351-7686
Japanese: You can do sushi (raw fish and rice rolls) or hibachi (food grilled at your table) – both are great (and somewhat pricey). For sushi: Beluga in Hyde Park. 513-533-4444. For hibachi: Fuji Steak House. 859-746-8180.
Greek: Who doesn't love gyros (or vegetarian gyros)? My new favorite Greek place is Greek to Me at the Point in Covington. 859-291-4976.
Middle Eastern (Moroccan/Iranian): One of downtown's best-kept secrets, you can get a falafel sandwich, a drink and fries for $6 at Diner on Elm. 513-421-0049.
Middle Eastern (Lebanese): Floyd's in Clifton is famous for its rotisserie chicken, as well as its great Lebanese fare. Make sure to try the sides, such as their house lentil soup and the butter beans. 513-221-2434.
Indonesian: A rare treat, Indonesian food is something you just have to experience in order to describe. In Cincinnati, Gajah Wong is the place to do so. 513-591-3935.
Korean: Characterized by strong and sometimes sour flavors, Korean food is well worth a try. Go to Korean Riverside Restaurant and make sure to order lots of ban chan (sides) and green tea. 859-291-1484.
Vietnamese: Lighter and airier than Chinese food, Vietnamese fare is a wonderful choice. I recommend Song Long on Section Rd. 513-351-7631
Brazilian: If you like meat, this is the place to go! Boi Na Braza offers a huge buffet of Brazilian-style meats and a huge salad bar. 513-421-7111.
Liz Wu is a freelance musician and journalist whose passions include the arts, culture and service to others. She is the author of Rosa Farm (Random House, 1996), has a CincyChic art and culture blog, contributes to CityBeat, Taste Magazine and other publications and is also co-founder/manager of Zeit Productions, a promotions company specially geared toward small businesses and artists/performers.
Photography by Scott Beseler
Ban Chan at Korean Riverside
Ban Chan with chopsticks
Nigiri Hirame at Ko Sho
Dolsot Bi Bim Bab at Korean Riverside